Monday, April 26, 2010

Gunks - Bouldering

Location:
Shawangunks, also known simply as the "Gunks" is located 2 hrs north of NYC near New Paltz, NY. The following map shows the parking lot to access the Gunks.

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Access:
To climb at the Gunks you need to pay the daily usage fee of $15 for climbing. If you will be visiting the Gunks often you can purchase a season pass for $85.

Boxcar Boulder

Approach:
There are handful of bouldering areas but majority of the problems are located in Trapps bouldering area. To access the Trapps bouldering Area after you park your car hike up the fairly well maintained on dirt and stone steps trail till you reach the carriage way. Once you get to the carriage road approach to many problems should be very easy. The whole approach can be done in flip flops but some might prefer to have better shoes for the initial hike.

Guidebooks:
According to the guys at Rock and Snow the best guide book for bouldering in the area is "Bouldering in the Shawangunks". If you have a hard time finding the guide book you can just go to Rock and Snow in new paltz on your way and pick up a copy.

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Where to Stay:
I made the Gunks a day trip from NYC. For much more detailed information on where to stay check out Mountain Project. The Mountain Project website has a very comprehensive list on everything you need to know about climbing at the Gunks.
The crash pad welcome mat at Andrew Boulder Problem
Food:
Bacchus is an excellent place for dinner. The food is pretty good and the beer selection is pretty awesome.

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Wi-Fi:
There should be plenty of cafe's with wi-fi access in New Paltz.

Links:
mountainproject.com
rockclimbing.com  
The Virgin's Guide To Gunks Climbing

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