Friday, February 12, 2010

Hueco Tanks Bouldering! - Day 4 North Mountain

For my 3rd day of bouldering I decided to take a commercial tour and go to the East Mountian. Unlike North Mountain the East Mountain, East Spur and West Mountain can only be accessed by a commercial or volunteer tour. I was originally signed up for a different group but decided to join Jordan's tour at the last minute because they were leaving sooner.
In this group I met Jordan, Marco, Pete, John and Chris. We all ended up working out really well as a group.
From left in a clock wise direction, Pete, Jordan, Marco, Chris and John
Everybody was great but I have to give special props to Marco. Marco was a veteran at Hueco and acted as our 2nd unofficial guide. Marco not only knew the area and beta for each climb very well he was very supportive. In hindsight it was probably his beta and supportive and encouraging nature that helped me send so many problems. 
We started the day on the Kid's Stuff wall which is on the other side of Warm Up Roof Wall. The Kid's Stuff wall works better as a warm up area than the Warm Up Roof wall. There are easier climbs and the wall is in the sun, making it ideal as the the first climbing spot in the morning. On this wall I did Tiger Beat V1. Juvenile Offender V0 and Jiffy Lube V0+.
Look at all the Huecos! Juvenile Offender V0
After a bit of warming up we were off to the Blender Boulder. This boulder had 2 set of fun climbs. One was the Ostracizer V2 and Hobbit in a blender V5. Jordan pointed that a hold has broken off in the recent past that made the problem harder than it used to be. After getting some beta pointers from Marco I jumped on it and flashed it!
 Top out on Ostracizer

Now I was eying the classic Hobbit in a Blender. The first move to the hold on the far right is often considered the crux. For me I didn't really think I would stick it on my first attempt but I grabbed a hold of the starting holds and swung my body to reach the hold off to the far right. I stuck it! Once I stuck it I just held on for dear life and refused to let go. And before I knew it I flashed it! My second V5 and I flashed it! The day was off to an awesome start!

On Hobbit in a Blender
Our next destination was right around the corner and we tackled the Warm Up  Roof. They call it the Warm Up Roof but the main problem here is a V4 problem called the Warm Up Roof. I think it's a soft V4 but it is a lot of fun. It still took me few tries to send the problem.
 Warm Up Roof V4, sweet Moves all the way up.
And next was the problem that made me curse out loud in a fit of disbelief. Dragonfly... One time I was so close to sending the problem. I got through all the cruxes and fell off at what is pretty much the last move. The last Crux is a locked off heel hook move. Once you get that heel on it should have been smooth sailing but mine just popped off! I'm usually a fairly calm climber but I couldn't help but to go on a bit of a cursing fit. Oh well, can't win em all all the time. Even if I didn't finish the climb it was a very fun climb. Next time I'll get it for sure.
Dragonfly V5... I'll get you next time my pretty....
After Dragonfly we decided that we wanted to check out East Spur. East Spur is a smaller area than East Mountain but has many cool climbs. We didn't get on too many climbs but we I couldn't help but jump on Vulgarian V2 on the Gunks Boulder.
How cool does that rock look? Vulgarian V2
The Gunks Boulder was named after the Gunks in NY. After seeing how much I liked the Gunks Marco and Pete told me that when I come out to NY they would take me out to the Gunks. I'm pretty excited! I was initially just thinking of bouldering a bit in central park as my NY bouldering but now I'll get some proper bouldering in at NY. Awesome!
I'm so glad I went on the commercial tour. My personal experience with the commercial tour was very positive, especially as a solo traveler. Being in a commercial tour was an easy way for me to meet and connect with people. Also it meant that I could push myself to my limits because I knew I had solid spots. I can't guarantee that everybody's commercial tour will turn out so great but I hope they do turn out as well as mine.
 East Spur

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