Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Hueco Tanks Bouldering! - Day 5 North Mountain

The day started off with a cell phone lost scare, a false scare and a cracked windshield... So I was hoping my climbing day would go much better than how my morning started.
Oh hai~! I be a chip in your windshield!

I met up with the posse at the warm up Boulder. Not too surprisingly there were a good amount of people gathered to climb there. I only really did one new climb at the wall, The Butter Dish V2. When you go up for the right hand you will understand why that name is so suitable. The hold is a super polished. At the Warm Up Boulder we met Val, a student from Australia. She joined us for the rest of the day. 
  
T-Bone Shuffle V4
We next moved on to the T-Bone Shuffle V4. This was a fun climb with a crazy beta. The crux which is the far reach to the Hueco. This can be done as a dyno or it can be done the way you can see in the photo. You get your left foot out far out and do a drop knee. Crank the down knee real hard, as Marco said it best "Beyond what you think you can". It's a pretty cool climb.
 
Asylum Crack V3
The next climb we tried was Asylum Crack V3. The problem is a long sustained crack. One of the harder move especially if you are tall is trying to not dab on the rock behind you. I personally didn't have too much trouble getting past the rock behind me but still could not finish the climb. I even lost a good chunk of skin when my right hand popped out. None of our crew finished the climb but there was a girl from France, a super strong climber that flashed it! She even shook her hands out on some crappy holds. It was pretty impressive. 

Chris taking a break from the Gums.
On our way to the "main event", Sign of the Cross, we passed by a crimpy slabby problem called the Gums V2. This was a cool climb but it had a bit of a funky landing issue. Since there was a rock slab behind us we ended up hanging 2 sets of crash pads behind the climber. I luckily flashed the problem and did not have to test out the pads. Chris had to put his foot on the other rock when he needed a break. Good thing he's tall or he might be going the splits!

Me starting at Sign of the Cross V3
Finally we made it to the Sign of the Cross V3. Most people consider it a stiff V3. I did manage to flash it but it wasn't easy. I had to do one of those climbing by will power of not letting go once I touched the hold. I would highly recommend this climb to anybody who wants to climb the upper limits of a V3. And although I don't have a photo of it Pete had an awesome send at the very last moment! It was pretty sweet.
 
Val attempting Sign of the Cross
 
 Marco and John looking all Zen
Since we had some extra time we decided to go checkout one of Val's Favorites. I believe she was a fan of the See Sharp V6 but I tried the climb right next to it called the Be Flat V4. The holds are pretty small and crimpy but they are actually very good when you stick them. I'm glad I tried it. It was fun and I added another V4 flash into my climbing records!
Be Flat V4
After Be Flat, we didn't have that much time left but we couldn't help ourselves from trying this one move wonder dyno. I still can't figure out what the climb is called and what it is rated but it was a fun dyno that wasn't as ridiculous as some of the other dynos I've seen. It was definitely a fun climb to end the day.

Sticking the Dyno!
It was without a doubt an awesome day of climbing.

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